Mussels may not be mainstream yet, but they're growing in popularity. The harvest of farm-raised mussels has increased from less than 50,000 pounds in 1991 to nearly half a million pounds in 1996. John Davis of Carlsbad Aquafarm is enjoying the boom. John, a retired commercial airline pilot, now devotes his life to raising mussels in a way that gives something back to nature. Aquaculture itself relieves some strain on the ocean and its harvest. But there are also other benefits. The mussels are grown underwater in 8-foot long tubes, which create a reef-like environment for local fish and marine life. So John's operation not only provides food; it enhances the ocean environment, as well. Carlsbad Aquafarm is also said to be the only mussel farm in the United States that uses a special technique called "de-puration." Basically, it's a process that filters the mussels through sterile seawater for two days. That essentially cleans the mussels of any bacterial pollutants they might have. The mussels are then sent to a lab where they are tested and state certified as free of bacteria. It is quite a process, but for John, it's worth it since it produces mussels that are very safe for people to eat. Here's a delicious mussel recipe you might like to try. It's from California Home Cooking, a cookbook by Michele Anna Jordan. Mexican Seafood Stew Note: achiote is a paste of ground annatto seed, cumin, garlic, vinegar and oregano. It is sold in Mexican and Latin markets and in specialty food stores. Ingredients ¼ cup olive oil 1 cup sliced leeks, white part only 2-3 serrano chiles, seeded and diced 8 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons achiote 4 cups chicken stock 3 medium zucchini, diced 3 cups tomato concasse Kosher salt Black pepper in a mill 8 ounces small dried pasta, such as farfalline or small shells 1 cup Cilantro Sauce (recipe follows) 1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 lb. fish fillets such as snapper, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 lb. fresh mussels 1 lime, cut into wedges Preparation Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Add leeks and serrano chiles, using 3 serrano chiles for more heat, and sauté them until they are soft and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes more. Break up the achiote with your fingers, and place it in a small bowl. Stir in enough stock to make a paste. Add the achiote paste and the rest of the stock to the leek mixture. Add the zucchini and tomato concasse and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. While the vegetables are cooking, cook the pasta separately until it is just barely done. Drain and rinse the pasta, toss it with 2 tablespoons of the Cilantro Sauce, and set it aside. Add the seafood to the vegetables, cover the pot and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Divide the pasta among heated soup bowls and then ladle the stew over it, being sure that each serving gets each type of seafood. Top each portion with a spoonful of Cilantro Sauce. Serve immediately, with a lime wedge and with the remaining Cilantro Sauce on the side. Serves 4-6. Cilantro Sauce Ingredients 6 garlic cloves 1 serrano or jalapeno chile 2 cups cilantro leaves 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil Preparation Combine the garlic, chile, cilantro, salt and lime juice in a blender or food processor. Blend or process until the mixture forms a smooth puree. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the olive oil. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Makes about 1˝ cups. If you have questions or comments about this story, please E-mail us at calheart@kvie.org.